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While most
gardeners across the country are reading seed catalogs and
gardening only in their imagination, our gardens are active and
alive, deserving of our attention. Gardening continues here,
even though sun's light soon will reach its lowest ebb of the
year. Daylight is now less than ten hours, and shadows are long.
But for the coastal gardener, there is still much to do.
Seeds may still be germinated. Flower seedlings can fill gaps in
the winter garden, while vegetable seedlings will allow the
harvest to continue well into spring. Fresh lettuce, chard and
spinach, picked right from your garden is delicious, nutritious
and economical.
All of the cole crops, like broccoli, cabbage, kale and
cauliflower are waiting to be planted. Sow bibb, buttercrunch
and romaine lettuces; mustards; flat-leaf parsley; green or
bulbing onions; leeks; radishes; beets; peas; and favas now. A
few sprinkles and most will sprout within two weeks.
To increase germination in the cool soil of December, cover the
bed with clear plastic. Hold down the edges with soil or rocks
to hold it in place and exclude slugs. When the seedlings are
all sprouted, remove the plastic.
Plant artichokes, asparagus, horseradish, rhubarb, blackberries
and boysenberries, as well as grapes and strawberries. Potatoes
can still be planted along the coast and make a terrific project
for children to grow in a large tub.
Leafy crops, like lettuce, romaine and spinach can be harvested
by removing only the outer leaves, leaving the center leaves to
grow and be harvested later. By removing only the outer leaves
the plant may continue growing for months, providing leaves the
entire time, until the lengthening days of spring eventually
trigger the plant to flower.
If you forgot to apply a dormant spray last month to your peach,
nectarine, plum, apple or apricot, do it now. Your second
application will be about New Year's Day, and the final
application should be just before the buds open in late winter
or early spring. Dormant sprays are essential on these trees to
control various foliage and fruit diseases that cannot otherwise
be treated.
Prune deciduous fruit trees, berries, grapes and kiwi vines
later this month or next, after the leaves have fallen. Most
shrubs can also be tidied up from summer, but don't cut shrubs
like lilac, ceanothus or hydrangea, or you'll remove next year's
flowers. Fuchsia should have been pruned hard a couple of weeks
ago, but you can still do it now. Cut hanging plants to just
past the edge of the basket. Don't worry that you may be cutting
the plant back to bare wood, that's not a problem. Feed the
plant aggressively with liquid fish fertilizer, and begin
pinching the tips every three or four weeks through February.
Then let it bloom. It will be spectacular.
Plant ageratum, alyssum, baby-blue-eyes, calendulas, candytuft,
Canterbury bells, forget-me-nots, larkspur, lobelia,
nasturtiums, pansies, poppies, primrose, stock, sweet peas,
violas and violets. My favorites — cyclamen, anemones and
ornamental cabbage — are planted now.
Plant California native plants, like ceanothus, zauschneria or
epilobium, toyon, flowering currant and Cleveland sage now, at
the beginning of their winter and spring growth period.
When planting, be careful not to compact the soil. Wet, soggy
soil should not be walked upon or you will compress it,
eliminating the spaces between the particles and depriving the
roots of precious air.
Continue fertilizing most potted plants and hanging baskets, but
many shrubs, vines and trees in the ground have little use for
fertilizer at this time of year — small, cool-season flowers,
vegetables and herbs being an exception. If gardenias, citrus or
other plants show iron deficiency, don't bother applying any, as
it is too cold for the iron to be effective.
If you haven't yet, lift begonia, caladium, gladiolus, dahlia,
tubers and corms. Leave them to dry for a couple of days, then
gently remove any remaining soil by hand. Store them in a
shallow tray of dry peat moss or clean potting soil in the
garage or another dark, dry and cool place.
This is the preferred time to prune pines, conifers and
eucalyptus to avoid attracting life-threatening bark or
longhorned beetles and will not disrupt nesting birds. Proper
pruning lessens the chance of wind damage, and provides
trimmings for holiday decorations. In addition to pine and
cypress, eucalyptus branches and twigs can be wired into lovely,
long-lasting and fragrant holiday wreaths and garlands. Rose
hips or the berries from nandina, toyon or pyracantha make a
nice accent.
The abundant fallen leaves and garden trimmings of December
should be composted, not disposed of.
Give all your garden tools a thorough once over. Clean, sharpen
and oil pruning shears. If you're not certain how to perform
this essential chore, don't guess — you may ruin your valuable
shears. Instead, bring them to a garden center that offers a
professional sharpening and tune-up service. Apply linseed oil
to all the wood handles of your tools, wiping off the excess the
next day. This annual treatment will help your tools last for
years.
Finally, provide food for winter's visiting birds. Sparrows,
finches, goldfinches and towhees will be attracted to
high-protein seed. Western bluebirds, wrens and warblers prefer
mealworms. Anna's hummingbirds and the occasional Allen's
hummingbird will need nectar sources, either provided by winter
blooming plants with tubular flowers or from a feeder.
There is still much to occupy the coastal gardener's time.
Although winter is just around the corner we're still gardening,
while the rest of the country is dreamin' of California.
RON VANDERHOFF
ASK RON
Question: I want to grow tall varieties of
snapdragons and stock for cutting. What varieties should I look
for?
Gail
Costa Mesa
Answer: For bouquets and vases, you will want
to seek out the tall cutting varieties. Look for a snapdragon
called "rocket" and a stock called "giant imperial." Both of
these grow 3-feet tall or taller, and this is the perfect time
to plant them.
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