Dahlias
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Dahlias are by far one of the most dependable and longest blooming of all summer flowers. Dahlias
are considered summer-blooming bulbs. However, they are actually
tubers. They are available as small
12" high bedding plants or 6 ft. high bushes and every size in between.
There are five basic size categories of Dahlias: giant flowers (dinner plate), large, medium (cactus),
small and miniature (pom pom and bedding). The giant flowering varieties have spectacular flowers up to
ten inches in diameter.
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LOCATION:
Dahlias thrive in full sun in good soil, provided it is fertile and well-drained. In heavy clay soils, it
would be necessary to replace approximately two thirds of the existing soil with Roger's Planting Mix.
Combine both thoroughly to a depth of at least one foot.
Dahlias require shelter from wind. Choose a location where once the plants are established, they will
not be watered overhead or receive spray from nearby sprinklers.
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PLANTING:
Tubers must have a section of the stem (see figure 1) with a bud in order to grow. Dig a hole 6" deep
in your newly amended soil. Place the tuber in the hole and cover the plant with 2 or 3 inches of soil. As
the plant grows and sprouts, cover with more soil. Place a tall stake (for your medium to tall varieties)
next to the tuber at planting time to support the plant as it grows taller.
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WATERING:
After you have planted the tubers, water thoroughly. Water at least once a week once tubers
become established (sprouts show above the soil line). Avoid overhead watering. Slow soaking at the base of
the plant is much preferred.
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PINCHING:
When there are 4-6 leaves on the plant, pinch out the center. This will cause side shoots to form,
creating a more compact, bushier plant. Repeat this for the next 4-6 leaves.
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FERTILIZING:
Feed every 2 weeks during the growing season beginning when the plant is at least 6" high with
Roger's Flower Food at half-strength.
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DAHLIAS AS CUT FLOWERS:
Water plants deeply the day before cutting. Wait until flowers are almost fully open. Cut flowers in
the early evening and immerse stem completely in water overnight. Another method is to seal the cut end
of the flowers by burning with a candle flame.
IMPORTANT:
Pick flowers regularly to stimulate continuous flowering.
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DIGGING UP TUBERS AT THE END OF THE BLOOM SEASON:
On or before November 1, allow tubers to dry out a bit. With a spading fork, carefully lift each
clump carefully (see figure 2). Start a good foot away from the plant to avoid spearing tubers. Cut tops off
within 6" of the crown (base of stem) and gently brush or rinse soil off the tubers by hand. Spread the clumps
out to dry for a few yours in the sun. DO NOT LEAVE IN SUN ALL DAY!
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STORAGE:
Inspect each clump carefully. Neatly trim off shrunken, infested and dead tubers at the neck. If you
have nicked any part of the tuber while digging, simply trim the wound. Label all clumps.
Dust the tubers with Cooke's Vegetable Dust. Store tubers upside down in a loose nest of peat moss in
a ventilated box or basket. DO NOT STACK ON TOP OF EACH OTHER. Store in a cool, dry
location protected from moisture and heat.
Plant the tubers again in late February or the beginning of March.
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DIVIDING:
Divide tubers after they have been stored and just before planting again the following year. Handle
tubers carefully. The best time to divide the tubers is after the "eyes" (new growth shoots) have sprouted
but BEFORE they have grown more than an inch long.
If eyes are slow to appear, place tubers right side up in flats filled with DAMP peat moss and put in a
warm (60½-70½F) spot.
Cut the Dahlia clump into individual tubers, using a sharp knife. Each tuber must have at least one eye
(see figure 3). If tuber is "blind" (lacking eyes) do not cut it away from the original clump. Dust with
Cooke's Tomato Vegetable Dust on newly cut surfaces.
Throw out any tubers that have withered away and show no signs of growth.
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