October Gardening Checklist
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Fellow Gardeners,
The information, dates, and techniques in this blog are as accurate as I can currently offer. I have cared for, nurtured, and observed tens of thousands of plants during the past three decades. With the help of many gardening friends, I have attempted to offer some helpful information to help you with your own gardening in October. Gardening is sharing. Any corrections, comments, or suggestions are appreciated and will improve future information.
Table of Contents:
General Gardening Info
October is one of the months where you can spend a little more time outside and really enjoy gardening and taking care of your plants. With the weather changing towards the cooler season, there are fewer pests to worry about, and lower temperatures mean less water stress for your plants.
Annuals:
Fall is on its way, and cool-season annual plants are rejoicing in the cooler weather. October is a great month to start planning and planting for your winter gardening. Make sure to keep your new plants well-watered for October since there will still be some warm and windy days.
● October is the first real month for putting in cool-season annuals. The soil is still relatively warm, but the temperatures are cooling off, making this a perfect planting month.
● There is still a good chance of some warm days and even drying Santa Ana winds, so keep newly planted annuals well-watered until they are thoroughly rooted.
● Cool-season annuals that you can plant in October include pansy, viola, stock, Iceland poppy, linaria, English daisy, alyssum, calendula, snapdragon, ornamental cabbage, and kale, bedding cyclamen, primrose, and cineraria.
● Because of their rapid growth and heavy flowering potential, annuals need more fertilizing than most other plants in gardens, even in October.
● Keep deadheading (removing spent flowers) your annuals to help them continue blooming abundantly.
● For instant color, garden mums are an excellent plant for October.
Geraniums:
● This group includes ivy geraniums, zonal geraniums (also called "Common" geraniums), Martha geraniums, and the various scented geraniums, but does not include true geraniums (sometimes called "Hardy" geraniums), which are discussed under Perennials.
● In October, Ivy and zonal types are still blooming in gardens but may look a bit stressed from the long hot summer. Keep up with removing spent flowers regularly to encourage more blooms.
● Continue fertilizing, except most scented types, with a balanced fertilizer. The dosage, however, can be reduced by half through the next several cool months.
● Ivy and zonal geraniums do not like heavy pruning. To keep the plants shapely and vigorous for a longer time, prune back a few long stems every month or so from spring through fall, but never very many at one time. Unless in a mild coastal garden, make this the last month for this pruning until next year.
● Begin pruning back Martha types now. Don't cut them all at once. Prune back one-third of the plant each month for the next three months.
Sweet Peas:
● Sweet pea seeds are in good supply right now. October is a perfect time to plant seeds of all varieties. Be sure to mix in a few of the early-blooming (also called "short-day") varieties that may bloom by Christmas. These early varieties include 'Winter Elegance' (our favorite) and 'Early Multiflora.'
● If you planted sweet pea seeds last month, thin them to about one plant every 6-8 inches. Fill in any gaps with additional seed or transplants.
● Pinch the tips of sweet peas when they get about 4-6 inches tall to encourage branching.
Learn more by watching: World Class Sweet Peas with Steve Hampson + How to Grow Sweet Peas with Steve Hampson
Wildflowers:
● It's almost time to start wildflowers from seed. Along the coast, October can be a good time, but inland gardens should wait until November.
● The best time to broadcast wildflower seeds is in the late fall, just before a rainy period. If possible, check the weather forecasts and look for a long, gradual storm approaching. Broadcast the seeds just before the rains begin. If it appears to be an early winter, you may start planting your wildflower gardens in October; otherwise, wait until next month and prepare the area now, instead. Weeds can overwhelm your wildflowers if not controlled. As soon as they sprout, start weeding.
Fruiting Plants
Keep an eye out for mildew on your grapes in October, and get ready to plant strawberries soon.
Strawberries:
● Next month is the absolute best month for planting strawberries. Get the area prepared now.
Learn more by watching: How to Grow the Best Strawberries with Sarah Smith
Grapes:
● Fertilizing for the year should be completed by now—no need to feed anymore until next year.
● Depending upon the variety, there still may be a few fruits to harvest.
● Begin reducing irrigations to prepare the vines for their upcoming dormant period.
● Powdery mildew may be appearing on the foliage now. Usually, this is caused by the vine being located in an area of poor air circulation, too much shade, or the lack of a winter dormant spray. However, late in the season, mildew is often present on many grapes. Treatment this late in the season is rarely of much value.
Cane Berries:
● Reduce or altogether withhold water to force your plants into dormancy and get them ready for next month's pruning.
Shrubs & Vines:
One of your October gardening jobs is to prune hollies, pyracantha, juniper, nandina, pittosporum, pine, toyon, and others–use the fresh branches as decorations.
Azaleas:
● Continue to keep azaleas well irrigated in the warm weather.
● Azaleas are shallow-rooted and dry out quickly. Do not cultivate or allow other plants to grow under or in competition with the roots of your azalea.
Camellias:
● Continue to keep camellia plants well-irrigated in the warm weather of this month and next. If camellias dry out too much now, they often will not show much stress. This is a significant cause of bud drop in their February–March bloom period.
● Camellias are shallow-rooted and dry out quickly. Do not cultivate or allow other plants to grow under or in competition with the roots of your camellia.
● Disbud Japanese camellias now for larger blooms next spring. If there are more than two buds per cluster, gently twist off any extras, and you will have larger and better-formed flowers next spring.
● Sasanqua camellias are nearly ready to begin blooming now. These varieties are fall bloomers. Feed them after the bloom cycle is finished.
● Japanese camellias are done with their "growth" cycle for this year. They have also finished setting their flower buds for next year. Most of the plant's energy for the remainder of the year is going toward these developing flowers. Do not apply any general fertilizer to camellias until after they finish blooming next year.
● Camellias are good plants to plant in October, so get going. Camellia’s should be readily available for planting this month.
Learn more by watching: Gardening 101 Series | How to Plant & Maintain a Camellia
Gardenias:
● This is your last chance to apply an iron supplement to your gardenia plants. Iron only works effectively in warm soil, so an application now will keep the plants a bit greener all winter.
● Gardenias are shallow-rooted and dry out quickly. Keep them well-watered during any hot or windy periods.
● Gardenias do not like hot, dry winds. If these occur, do what you can to shield the plant. A light misting and syringe of the leaves also helps.
Learn more by watching: How to Successfully Grow Gardenias with Sarah Smith
Hydrangeas:
● Contrary to some references, do not prune hydrangeas this late in the year. Hydrangeas bloom on one-year-old stems. Pruning now will eliminate most of next year's flowers.
● If you want to try to get blue or lavender flowers on your otherwise pink plant, you can start applying aluminum sulfate to the soil as early as now. White-flowered varieties will not be affected, and not all pinks will be affected the same.
Roses:
● Many rose plants are blooming very well in the late summer/early fall period. For many modern varieties of roses, this is their "second spring" in southern California. Enjoy the flowers, especially if you did a summer pruning in early August.
● Disease should not be much of an issue now, except perhaps along the immediate coast.
● Do not use soil-applied fertilizers combined with a systemic insecticide. These products are very disruptive to soil life (beneficial microorganisms, bacteria, mycorrhizal fungi, earthworms, etc.). Many rosarians also believe they reduce the vigor of the rose.
● Continue fertilizing.
● Keep deadheading roses as the flowers fade.
● Pest problems are unlikely this time of the year.
● Irrigations should be gauged according to the weather.
● October is also a great month for planting roses. Make sure to keep your newly planted rose bush well-watered while it establishes roots.
Learn more by watching: How to Plant, Care and Prune Rose Play List
Wisterias:
● No need to do any pruning now; you'll make your final pruning of the year in December.
● The foliage of wisterias may be looking a bit dry and even showing a slight tip burn. No need to worry; there is not much you can do to assist the plant right now.
● Watering needs will be significantly reduced now, and there is no need to fertilize.
Trees:
October gardening jobs include some tree pruning. A light pruning at this time can help trees survive the strong Santa Ana winds.
● October is a good time to prune most evergreen trees (except for tender sub-tropical trees like Ficus, Coral Tree, Avocado, Citrus, etc.).
● Wait a month or two on deciduous trees since the process will be much easier after the leaves have fallen. Nesting birds are unlikely at this time, the sap flow is reduced, and the pruning will help strong winds pass through the tree canopy with little damage.
Deciduous Fruit Trees:
● Reduce watering now. Continue to check the soil moisture level in the root area, but the trees will be using less water this time of the year. Keeping the plants barely watered will help force them into dormancy. This can be especially helpful with more temperate varieties that are marginally fruitful in our climate.
● If you are trying to limit the size of your trees, the correct time to prune them is immediately following fruit harvest, which may be as late as now, not in the winter.
● Most peaches, nectarines, apricots, and plums are finished producing fruit by October. However, many persimmons, apple, and pear varieties are fruiting now.
Citrus:
● Citrus may be starting to show a few yellow leaves already, especially if there have been some cool night temperatures.
● Feeding is all done on most citrus plants. The exception is with potted citrus, which should continue feeding with a ½ to 1/3 dose application through the fall. Use a fertilizer rich in such trace minerals as iron, zinc, manganese, copper, and others. These ingredients are usually well represented in organic fertilizers like Dr. Earth.
● Be careful with irrigation now. Warm, dry weather requires irrigation, while cooler temperatures require little irrigation.
● Continue periodically checking for ants. Control them from climbing up the trunk of the tree or onto the branches immediately. Although not directly harmful to the citrus, they are "farming" such pests as scale, whitefly, aphids, and mealybug, all of which are common on citrus.
● Valencia oranges will keep on the tree for months and may "re-green" in the fall. This does not affect their flavor.
Learn more by watching: How to Plant, Care and Prune Citrus Play List
Avocados:
● Don't be alarmed by a lot of leaf drop on mature plants. Avocados produce a lot of leaf litter nearly year-round. This is a normal condition.
● Irrigate as needed to keep the soil moist but not wet.
● It's really too late to plant an avocado successfully this year. Being sub-tropical plants, avocados prefer to be planted during the long warm part of the year.
● Many varieties may have fruit ready to harvest.
● Avocados are about done putting on any new growth this year.
● Do not feed at all this month.
● Be sure to keep a very thick blanket of mulch, compost, or fallen leaves under mature avocados at all times. Avocados need a cool root-run for good health.
● Most avocados have been out of season for at least a couple of months now. A mid-season variety, like "Reed' or 'Mexicola,' may have fruit ready to harvest. Remember that avocado fruit does not ripen on the tree; it must be removed and should ripen indoors at room temperature.
Learn more by watching: Edible Gardening: How to Grow Avocados in Southern California with Sarah Smith
Subtropical Fruits:
● Except for the 'Beaumont' variety, start checking now for fallen macadamia nuts. Pick them off the ground weekly, which may last for up to three months. The 'Beaumont' variety will be picked directly off the tree in March.
● Many of these will still be looking good. However, the temperatures will be dropping soon, so it is time to reduce or eliminate fertilizing.
● Don't plant subtropical fruit trees in October unless you absolutely have to.
● Let these plants harden off a bit before the cool temperatures of late fall and winter. Reducing or eliminating nitrogen fertilizer and cutting back on watering will help the plants get ready for the cooler months ahead.
Perennials:
October is a big month for perennial gardening. It is not too late to plant perennials in October. There are plenty of perennial plants that can still be planted. Here’s a list of some of the best perennial flowers and bulbs to plant in the fall, as well as care tips.
● This may be the most critical month in a perennial garden; here is your fall perennial planting guide for October.
● This is right in the middle of the big fall planting months for perennials. Planting now allows these plants to establish themselves all fall and winter for great spring blooms. As you shop for these plants, they will not be coming into bloom but going out of bloom. Experienced gardeners know not to worry about this, and they plant most of their perennials and shrubs over the next couple of months.
● This is the best month to plant most perennials. The only exceptions are a couple of frost tender sub-tropicals like pentas and scaevola.
● Your perennials will not need much, if any, fertilizing during the upcoming cool months. Exceptions might be a few container plants and the cool-season perennials mentioned below.
● October is a great month to review your perennials for potential replacements or upgrades. Many perennials are short-term plants and lose either their vigor or form quickly and should be re-planted now. These include (with an approximate useful lifespan) columbine (2-3 years), delphinium (1-2 years), euryops daisy (2-3 years), Felicia daisy (2-3 years), foxglove (1-2 years), lavender (3-5 years), marguerite daisy (2-3 years), nemesia (1 year), oriental poppy (1-3 years), pelargonium (2-3 years), penstemon (3 years), phygelius (3-5 years), scabiosa (2-3 years), and verbena (varies).
● Divide alstroemeria, armeria, calla (common white), clumping campanula, coneflower (echinacea), coral bells (heuchera), clumping coreopsis, dahlia (tuberous perennial types), daylily (hemerocallis), geranium (true geranium), goldenrod (solidago), Japanese anemone, kniphofia (red hot poker), lamb's ears (stachys), liatris, true lilies, matilija poppy (romneya), obedient plant (physostegia), oregano (ornamental types), phygelius, shasta daisy, and stokesia (stokes aster).
● Several perennials slow down considerably or go semi-dormant in the cool months ahead. You can cut back these varieties pretty hard right now to help the garden look a bit tidier until spring. Those that you can cut back now include achillea (yarrow), aster (perennial types, if they have finished blooming), baby's breath (gypsophila), most campanula, columbine (aquilegia), coral bells (heuchera), coreopsis, daylily (hemerocallis), dianthus (perennial types including carnation), gaillardia, most geranium (true geranium), goldenrod (solidago), Japanese anemone (when they finish blooming), lamb's ears (stachys), lions tail (leonotis), matilija poppy (romneya), monkshood (aconitum), oregano (ornamental types), oriental poppy, penstemon, phlomis, phygelius, rudbeckia, Russian sage (perovskia), most salvia (sage), scabiosa (pincushion flower), shasta daisy, stokesia (stokes aster), valerian ( centranthus), verbena (perennial types), and veronica (perennial types).
● Some other perennials do not like a hard cut-back, at least not now, and should only be trimmed lightly to shape them and remove any old or dead growth. These include agastache, gaura, lamium, lavender (lavandula), nemesia (perennial types), oriental poppy, pelargonium (ivy's, zonal's and Martha's), penstemon, and thyme.
● Some perennials disappear entirely from sight in the cool winter months and then reappear in the spring. Don't cut these back until the foliage is nearly completely dehydrated; then, you can cut the tops off near the soil level. Be sure to mark where these are in the garden so as not to accidentally damage them when cultivating or digging in the area. Some of these completely herbaceous perennials include asclepias – some varieties (butterfly weed), bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), caladium, calla (colored types), coneflower (echinacea), dahlia (tuberous perennial types), chocolate cosmos, kniphofia (red hot poker), liatris, true lilies (lilium), monkshood (aconitum), obedient plant (physostegia), and thalictrum (meadow rue).
● A few perennials are cool-season plants in our climate and are just now beginning to enter their best, most colorful time of the year. Do not prune these now. Instead, feed them a bit, and they'll be even better. These include alstroemeria (except in very cold inland gardens), armeria, euryops daisy, forget-me-not (myosotis), hellebore, marguerite daisy, and viola (perennial types).
● A few other perennials are subtropical and frost tender. These should not be trimmed now, or winter damage may occur. Wait until early spring to prune these: begonias, heliotrope, impatiens, lamium, pentas (starflower), and plectranthus.
● Some perennials don't need any annual cutting back at all. Just groom these a bit by removing any dead leaves, dead stems, old foliage, etc., and let them keep going. These include armeria, calla (common white), oriental poppy, and statice (limonium).
● Removing spent or old flowers regularly will help them to produce more new flowers. These can be dried and used in the home for fall arrangements.
● Some perennials are actually biennials or at least behave like biennials in our climate. For loads of spring flowers, set out transplants now. These include canterbury bells (Campanula medium), hollyhock (Alcea), Queen Anne's lace (Ammi majus), most foxglove (Digitalis), and most delphiniums. Don't wait until next spring, which most beginners will do; these must be fall planted to ensure spring blooms.
Learn more by watching: Gardening 101 Series | How to Use Annuals vs. Perennials with Lynn Hillman
Clematis:
● Many clematises put on a heavy second bloom spike during the late summer or early fall. Yours may be beginning this bloom cycle now.
● Apply a half-strength feeding to the plant now.
● To keep the roots cool, maintain a thick 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch over them.
● During warm, windy, or dry spells, be sure to irrigate regularly.
Poinsettias:
● Do not pinch or prune your poinsettias in October, especially if you want them to rebloom.
● Protect your poinsettia plants from high winds to avoid breaking the stems.
● To get your poinsettia to rebloom for Christmas, now is the time to start. (hint: it usually isn't worth all the effort).
● On October 1, move the plant to a completely dark, cool spot (about 65 degrees) for fourteen hours every day (ten hours in daylight). You must repeat this for ten consecutive weeks.
● The reblooming process will not work well if any light reaches the poinsettia plant (even streetlights or a full moon) or if the process is not consistent.
● During its daylight period, the plant should have direct light for about five to six hours and indirect light for the balance of time. Meanwhile, feed the plant frequently with a high phosphorus fertilizer.
California Native Plants:
● This is the earliest month to consider planting most California natives. These plants are generally summer dormant (although they usually retain their foliage), an adaptation to our dry summers. To establish these plants, they should be planted in the fall or early winter, at the onset of cool weather and rains.
● If necessary, prune, thin, and shape plants now, at the beginning of their growing season.
Learn more by watching: California Native Plants for Your Garden with James Maxwell + California Native Plants with Sarah Smith
Fuchsias:
● These are about done with their show for this year and may look a little ragged.
● Stop any fertilizing to the plants now and let them harden off a bit before the cool months begin.
● There is still a chance of some unusually hot or windy spells. During these days, be sure to check the soil moisture carefully, especially those plants in hanging baskets or containers.
● Groom the plant periodically by removing dead flowers and any developing seed pods.
Groundcovers:
● Warm-season groundcovers are slowing down now and preparing to wait out the cool months ahead. Do not fertilize these varieties now or do any heavy pruning.
● Cool-season groundcovers are beginning to grow and even bloom well. Common examples of these are African daisies (Osteospermum) and South African daisies (Gazania). Feed these varieties. A granular fertilizer works exceptionally well for groundcovers, particularly on slopes.
● This is the best time of the year to perform a heavy cutting-back of cool-season varieties if necessary. Many of these build up considerable thatch and lose their vigor if not cut back periodically. In general, the faster they grow, the more frequently they need a firm cutting back. Fertilize after the cut-back to ensure a quick recovery.
● Continue to irrigate carefully. Periods of very hot, dry weather and Santa Ana winds can dry out ground cover areas quickly.
Learn more by watching: How to Plant & Grow Groundcover with Dalia Brunner
Orchids (Outside Grown):
● Keep moving your potted Cymbidiums to more light. The foliage should be a slightly bleached-out lime-green color. If the leaves are a deep "healthy" green, there is a good chance that it is in too much shade, and a few months may bloom poorly.
Bulbs, rhizomes, tubers, etc.:
● A few fall-blooming bulbs are creating some excitement now in Orange County gardens. These include colchicum, fall-blooming crocus, nerine, sternbergia, and zephyranthes.
● This is a good month to start the chilling process for tulips, hyacinth, most varieties of crocus, some alliums, and fritillaria. If placed in the refrigerator on the first of October, they will be ready for planting in December—a perfect time. They should be in a loose paper bag and will need about ten weeks at a temperature of 39-42 degrees. You will have better results in old-fashioned frost-producing refrigerators and those without any ripening fruit present.
● Bedding cyclamen in small four-inch pots, although not usually considered along with bulbs, are flowering again. Plant them now in bright shady areas for continuous blooms through March or April of next year.
● This is still an excellent time to dig, divide, and re-plant many of the bulbs that naturalize in Orange County gardens. Those to consider dividing now include babiana, chasmanthe, spring-blooming crocus, some daffodils and narcissus, Dutch iris, gladiolus, hippeastrum, and leucojum. Some of these varieties perform best when allowed to go undisturbed for many years, while others need division and re-planting regularly. Check with a knowledgeable source before you begin.
Learn more by watching: Fall Planted Bulbs for Southern California Gardens with Sarah Smith
Bearded Iris:
● It is getting late to dig, transplant, and divide these. If you didn't do this chore over the last two months, better late than never. Bearded iris should be dug and divided every four years (every two or three years for aggressive re-blooming varieties).
● If you are growing any of the new "repeat-blooming" varieties, they will often be in bloom again now. Keep feeding these re-bloomers. Older, "once-blooming" varieties can have their feeding reduced or even eliminated for the rest of the year.
Dahlias (Tuberous Types):
● Enjoy the final month of good flowers.
● Continue to remove spent blooms regularly.
● Begin slightly reducing waterings now as the plants near the end of their season.
● This is the final feeding of the year. Fertilize at half strength.
● Powdery mildew may become more prevalent at this time of the year. It may not be worth attempting any control. If you prefer, you can try organic neem oil or 'E-Rase.'
Learn more by watching: Lew Whitney's Secrets to Growing and Maintaining Dahlias + How to Grow & Maintain Dahlias with Steve Hampson
Cannas:
● Their flowering may be slowing down a bit finally after several months of bloom.
● Cut out any old flowering stalks all the way to the soil.
Tuberous Begonias:
● Plants are about done for this year. Enjoy the last of the flowers.
● Stop fertilizing. The plants need to slow down now so that you can lift the tubers next month and store them.
● Reduce the watering significantly. Don't let them wilt, but keep them much drier than you have all summer. This will help the plant move its sugars from the leaves and stems downward and into the tubers.
● Powdery mildew is much more likely now, near the end of their season. Don't worry about it. The season is about over anyway.
Tropicals & Subtropicals:
● Many of these will still be blooming and looking good. However, the temperatures will be dropping soon, so it is time to reduce or eliminate fertilizing these plants.
● It is not unusual for many of these to have a big fall flower burst now. Look for lots of color now on plumerias, hibiscus, bougainvillea, and ginger.
● Don't plant unless you absolutely have to.
● Let these plants harden off a bit before the cool temperatures of late fall and winter arrive. Reducing or eliminating nitrogen fertilizer and cutting back on watering will help the plants get ready for the cooler months ahead.
Foliage Plants
Keep irrigating your foliage plants when the October weather is hot and dry. Many ornamental grasses are starting to put out seedheads, so this is a great time to clip those off for fall floral displays and to prevent re-seeding.
Ferns:
● Irrigate according to the weather, being especially aware of unseasonably hot, dry, or windy weather.
● Other than potted plants, which you can continue to fertilize at half strength, there is no need to fertilize again next year.
● Don't do any extensive cutting back, transplanting, or dividing. Most ferns enjoy warm weather, and these tasks are better performed at the beginning of their growth period next year.
Ornamental Grasses:
● Many grasses are now developing seed heads. These seed heads can be pretty showy and are one of the most ornamental aspects of these plants. These can be especially attractive in the low, soft, fall light, especially in the evening and early morning. The foliage of many species of grasses is beginning to dry back now. This drying foliage, especially when combined with the seed heads waving overhead, is an important part of many garden designs at this time of year. Do not cut these drying grasses back until you have thoroughly enjoyed their "fall" show.
● A few grasses may want to re-seed either in your garden or even into an adjacent wild area. If this is an issue, prune these seed heads off before the heads are fully ripe to prevent the seeds from dispersing.
● You can use the dry flowers of some of these grasses in fall arrangements. Consider these as a "fall" version of a spring flower bouquet.
● This is about the right time to cut back many cool-season grasses. Look for signs of new growth at the base of the plant. As soon as these new shoots appear, cut all the old foliage to near soil level. The common Pennisetum setaceum or P. orientale are perfect examples of this pruning.
Learn more by watching: Low Water Ornamental Grasses with James Maxwell
Vegetables & Herbs:
There are always many gardening tasks to do with vegetables and herbs, and October is no exception. There are quite a few different plants to be planted in October, and succession planting cool-season veggies will help keep you supplied with tasty produce throughout the winter.
Vegetables
● Plant potatoes from certified "seed potatoes" (actually little tubers). Planting now will provide potatoes that will be ready to harvest next summer.
● This is a perfect month for cool-season vegetable planting. Give up on most of the warm-season plants hanging on, and give this valuable space to their cool-season brethren.
● Plant transplants or seeds of arugula, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, collards, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mesclun mix, mustard, onions, parsley, peas, and spinach. From seed plant beets, carrots, favas, parsnips, radishes, rutabaga, and turnips.
● You can plant beets, carrots, chard, radish, and possibly turnips just about year-round. All but chard are planted from seed only.
● Now is one of the best times to plant garlic, onions, shallots, or leeks from sets (little bulbs).
● Putting in successive plantings of many vegetables a couple of weeks apart from each other will ensure a constant, uninterrupted supply for the kitchen.
● If you didn't last month, cut down asparagus tops now.
● The weather can still be very warm and dry, and Santa Ana winds are common now. Be sure to keep the garden well-watered during these spells.
● Since most annual vegetables are shallow-rooted and quick growing, feed them regularly with a well-balanced organic fertilizer.
Learn more by watching:
The Best Vegetables to Grow in the Cool Fall Season with Sarah Smith + Edible Gardening Series Cool Season Vegetable Gardening with Suzanne Hetrick
Herbs:
● This is the official beginning of the planting time for cool-season herbs.
● Cool-season and other herbs that can be fall-planted include anise, arugula, borage, chervil, chives, cilantro, comfrey, dill, fennel, feverfew, garlic chives, lavender, lemongrass, lovage, parsley, rosemary, salad burnet, and sorrel.
● Basil (except African Blue Basil) is in a mighty struggle now. The shorter days and cooler nights are taking their toll, and the plants aren't doing any growing but are spending all of their energy attempting to set flowers and seeds. Do your best to continue pinching out the flower buds and harvest whatever leaves you can.
Beneficial Insects:
● The numbers of beneficial insects and pests are at very low numbers now that the weather is cooling and the days are shortening.
● Giant whitefly infestations will still be seen, but there is no need for treatment with pesticides or beneficial insects this late in the season.
● Spider mites can still be found on many plants now, but in most cases, it is too late in the season for the release of beneficial predator mites.
Learn more by watching: How to Identify & Eliminate Common Garden Pests
Lawns:
● This is a good month for planting new cool-season lawns like fescue from seed. It is also a good time to overseed in thin areas of these same lawns.
● If you did not overseed your hybrid bermudagrass lawn last month and want to, you should do it now. In most of southern California, hybrid bermudagrass will go dormant until growth resumes about March of next year. Annual ryegrass is traditionally used as a winter "cover" on these lawns.
● Remember, cool-season lawn care (fescue/Marathon, bluegrass, ryegrass) should include setting your mower about half an inch lower in the cool months than in the warm months.
● If your cool-season grass has been infested with warm-season turfs like bermuda grass or kikuyu grass, this is the last chance of the year to control it. A selective herbicide, named "Grass Getter," can be sprayed over your cool-season lawn, and it will suppress warm-season grasses without damaging the cool-season grasses.
● If you didn't get it done last month, apply pre-emergent weed control to prevent Poa annua (annual bluegrass) from germinating. You will apply again around January 1. Skip this process if you are overseeding with annual bluegrass for the winter.
● Continue feeding warm-season lawns at least one more time to keep them green and growing into the fall as far as possible.
● Return to applying a full dose of fertilizer to your cool-season lawns.
● It's too late now to be planting warm-season grasses (hybrid bermudagrass, St. Augustine, etc.).
● If you have already over-seeded your warm-season lawn with Annual rye, you should be feeding from now all through the winter since it is actively growing this time of the year.
● Certain cool-season grasses also develop a thatch layer and require an occasional "dethatching" for a healthier turf, especially bluegrass and hybrid fescue/Marathon types. This is the best month to detach these cool-season turfs – but not warm-season grasses.
● Crabgrass is at the end of its season, and the clumps are easy to notice in lawns. They are setting seed now that will ensure an even more significant problem next year. For small infestations, water the lawn and hand-pull the clumps – they will remove reasonably easily in the soggy soil. For larger infestations, use a selective herbicide with the ingredient "MSMA." Follow label directions carefully.
Source: https://www.rosehills.com/discover-rose-hills
Places to Visit:
● Gardens that look terrific almost any time of the year include Sherman Library and Gardens (Corona del Mar), The Fullerton Arboretum (Fullerton), Los Angeles Arboretum (Arcadia), Huntington Library and Botanical Gardens (San Marino), and San Diego Botanical Gardens (Encinitas).
Rose Hills Memorial Park.At the Fullerton Arboretum, don't miss the annual Arborfest and Fall Plant Sale. Usually held during a weekend toward the middle of the month, it features family activities, an Ugly Bug Fair, Cactus & Succulent Show, over 50 exhibitors, apple pressing, butter making, hay wagon rides, children's garden crafts, food, and music.
Records, Catalogs, Books, and Organizations:
● If you kept notes in your garden journal during the spring, this is the time to go back and see what needed to be done this fall. Be sure to also drop in some notes from this season about what did well, what is still doing well, and of course, what did not do well.
● With all the planting going on this month, it is a good idea to make some notes in your journal about the names and varieties of what you planted. Often, much later, you cannot remember the name or variety of a plant. After the plant is taken out of the pot, save the tag and jot a note into your journal about where and when you planted it.
Many mail-order plant and seed companies send out "fall" catalogs about now. Check the mail for these. They can be a lot of fun and also educational. Be careful, however, that the plants and information apply to our very unique gardening climate here in Orange County.
Soil Care:
● A thick layer of organic mulch, averaging about two inches, should be maintained on top of the soil just about year-round. Add additional mulch as needed to maintain this level. This is one of the most critical months of the year to apply this mulch.
● Applied now, a thick layer of mulch will moderate the soil temperatures, reduce weed germination, and significantly improve soil health and soil quality.
● If you have been considering inoculating your soil with beneficial mycorrhizae to restore soil health, this is one of the best months of the year to do so. The soil temperatures are just right for quick establishment. Inoculation can be done quickly and easily in established areas by using mycorrhizae "tablets." In moist soil, poke a hole near the plant with a ½" or ¾" rod or stick. Drop a tablet into the hole and push it in again with the stick.
● We do not suggest the use of very high-analysis fertilizers in a garden, especially phosphorus. Examples of fertilizers to avoid are synthetic versions with formulations like 10-55-10, 10-30-10, etc. We don't even suggest the popular 15-30-15 formula. These formulations will inhibit or even destroy much of the soil life that is so vital to healthy, sustainable soil.
● We also suggest that you not use soil-applied systemic fertilizer/insecticide combinations (especially popular with roses). These are very damaging to soil life.
● Use insecticides only when necessary, and even then, use the least damaging product available. Many of these products move into the soil and interfere with the invisible soil life.
● If you can, begin a compost pile or purchase a compost bin. Home compost is one of the very best ingredients you can add to your soil. Home compost helps significantly in disease suppression, increases beneficial microorganisms, improves soil structure and texture, aids nutrient retention, and helps with nematode suppression. Over the next couple of months, there will be many fallen leaves from deciduous trees, and these are excellent additions to a compost bin over the winter to improve your garden soil.
● Since this is also one of the most significant planting months of the year, be sure that before you put a plant into the garden, you have considered the soil and do all you can to improve it and protect its health.
● If your soil pH is too high (alkaline), this is probably the single best month of the year to lower it. The two methods are both effective. Using a low pH mulch over the surface is probably the most effective. The other is with the incorporation of soil sulfur, an organic naturally occurring acidifying chemical.
Learn more by watching: Gardening 101 Series | What Kind of Soil Should You Use? + How to Prepare Your Soil with Suzanne Hetrick
Water & Irrigation:
● Watch out for drying Santa Ana winds. Take down hanging baskets and set them on the ground when these winds blow.
● Reset sprinklers now since the weather is cooling off.
Fertilizer:
● Make the last application of granular iron fertilizer to gardenias, camellias, azaleas, citrus, or any other plants that have a high iron requirement. Plants only absorb iron when the soil temperatures are warm, and this is the last chance until next March.
● Do not feed frost-sensitive or sub-tropical plants this time of year.
Learn more by watching: Fertilizer Tips 1- 2-3 with Suzanne Hetrick + Why Fertilize & What do the Numbers Mean with Suzanne Hetrick
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Fellow Gardeners,
The information, dates, and techniques in this blog are as accurate as I can currently offer. I have cared for, nurtured, and observed tens of thousands of plants during the past three decades. With the help of many gardening friends, I have attempted to offer some helpful information to help you with your own gardening in October. Gardening is sharing. Any corrections, comments, or suggestions are appreciated and will improve future information.
Table of Contents:
Annuals:
Fall is on its way, and cool-season annual plants are rejoicing in the cooler weather. October is a great month to start planning and planting for your winter gardening. Make sure to keep your new plants well-watered for October since there will still be some warm and windy days.
● October is the first real month for putting in cool-season annuals. The soil is still relatively warm, but the temperatures are cooling off, making this a perfect planting month.
● There is still a good chance of some warm days and even drying Santa Ana winds, so keep newly planted annuals well-watered until they are thoroughly rooted.
● Cool-season annuals that you can plant in October include pansy, viola, stock, Iceland poppy, linaria, English daisy, alyssum, calendula, snapdragon, ornamental cabbage, and kale, bedding cyclamen, primrose, and cineraria.
● Because of their rapid growth and heavy flowering potential, annuals need more fertilizing than most other plants in gardens, even in October.
● Keep deadheading (removing spent flowers) your annuals to help them continue blooming abundantly.
● For instant color, garden mums are an excellent plant for October.
Geraniums:
● This group includes ivy geraniums, zonal geraniums (also called "Common" geraniums), Martha geraniums, and the various scented geraniums, but does not include true geraniums (sometimes called "Hardy" geraniums), which are discussed under Perennials.
● In October, Ivy and zonal types are still blooming in gardens but may look a bit stressed from the long hot summer. Keep up with removing spent flowers regularly to encourage more blooms.
● Continue fertilizing, except most scented types, with a balanced fertilizer. The dosage, however, can be reduced by half through the next several cool months.
● Ivy and zonal geraniums do not like heavy pruning. To keep the plants shapely and vigorous for a longer time, prune back a few long stems every month or so from spring through fall, but never very many at one time. Unless in a mild coastal garden, make this the last month for this pruning until next year.
● Begin pruning back Martha types now. Don't cut them all at once. Prune back one-third of the plant each month for the next three months.
Sweet Peas:
● Sweet pea seeds are in good supply right now. October is a perfect time to plant seeds of all varieties. Be sure to mix in a few of the early-blooming (also called "short-day") varieties that may bloom by Christmas. These early varieties include 'Winter Elegance' (our favorite) and 'Early Multiflora.'
● If you planted sweet pea seeds last month, thin them to about one plant every 6-8 inches. Fill in any gaps with additional seed or transplants.
● Pinch the tips of sweet peas when they get about 4-6 inches tall to encourage branching.
Learn more by watching: World Class Sweet Peas with Steve Hampson + How to Grow Sweet Peas with Steve Hampson
Wildflowers:
● It's almost time to start wildflowers from seed. Along the coast, October can be a good time, but inland gardens should wait until November.
● The best time to broadcast wildflower seeds is in the late fall, just before a rainy period. If possible, check the weather forecasts and look for a long, gradual storm approaching. Broadcast the seeds just before the rains begin. If it appears to be an early winter, you may start planting your wildflower gardens in October; otherwise, wait until next month and prepare the area now, instead. Weeds can overwhelm your wildflowers if not controlled. As soon as they sprout, start weeding.
Fruiting Plants
Keep an eye out for mildew on your grapes in October, and get ready to plant strawberries soon.
Strawberries:
● Next month is the absolute best month for planting strawberries. Get the area prepared now.
Learn more by watching: How to Grow the Best Strawberries with Sarah Smith
Grapes:
● Fertilizing for the year should be completed by now—no need to feed anymore until next year.
● Depending upon the variety, there still may be a few fruits to harvest.
● Begin reducing irrigations to prepare the vines for their upcoming dormant period.
● Powdery mildew may be appearing on the foliage now. Usually, this is caused by the vine being located in an area of poor air circulation, too much shade, or the lack of a winter dormant spray. However, late in the season, mildew is often present on many grapes. Treatment this late in the season is rarely of much value.
Cane Berries:
● Reduce or altogether withhold water to force your plants into dormancy and get them ready for next month's pruning.
Shrubs & Vines:
One of your October gardening jobs is to prune hollies, pyracantha, juniper, nandina, pittosporum, pine, toyon, and others–use the fresh branches as decorations.
Azaleas:
● Continue to keep azaleas well irrigated in the warm weather.
● Azaleas are shallow-rooted and dry out quickly. Do not cultivate or allow other plants to grow under or in competition with the roots of your azalea.
Camellias:
● Continue to keep camellia plants well-irrigated in the warm weather of this month and next. If camellias dry out too much now, they often will not show much stress. This is a significant cause of bud drop in their February–March bloom period.
● Camellias are shallow-rooted and dry out quickly. Do not cultivate or allow other plants to grow under or in competition with the roots of your camellia.
● Disbud Japanese camellias now for larger blooms next spring. If there are more than two buds per cluster, gently twist off any extras, and you will have larger and better-formed flowers next spring.
● Sasanqua camellias are nearly ready to begin blooming now. These varieties are fall bloomers. Feed them after the bloom cycle is finished.
● Japanese camellias are done with their "growth" cycle for this year. They have also finished setting their flower buds for next year. Most of the plant's energy for the remainder of the year is going toward these developing flowers. Do not apply any general fertilizer to camellias until after they finish blooming next year.
● Camellias are good plants to plant in October, so get going. Camellia’s should be readily available for planting this month.
Learn more by watching: Gardening 101 Series | How to Plant & Maintain a Camellia
Gardenias:
● This is your last chance to apply an iron supplement to your gardenia plants. Iron only works effectively in warm soil, so an application now will keep the plants a bit greener all winter.
● Gardenias are shallow-rooted and dry out quickly. Keep them well-watered during any hot or windy periods.
● Gardenias do not like hot, dry winds. If these occur, do what you can to shield the plant. A light misting and syringe of the leaves also helps.
Learn more by watching: How to Successfully Grow Gardenias with Sarah Smith
Hydrangeas:
● Contrary to some references, do not prune hydrangeas this late in the year. Hydrangeas bloom on one-year-old stems. Pruning now will eliminate most of next year's flowers.
● If you want to try to get blue or lavender flowers on your otherwise pink plant, you can start applying aluminum sulfate to the soil as early as now. White-flowered varieties will not be affected, and not all pinks will be affected the same.
Roses:
● Many rose plants are blooming very well in the late summer/early fall period. For many modern varieties of roses, this is their "second spring" in southern California. Enjoy the flowers, especially if you did a summer pruning in early August.
● Disease should not be much of an issue now, except perhaps along the immediate coast.
● Do not use soil-applied fertilizers combined with a systemic insecticide. These products are very disruptive to soil life (beneficial microorganisms, bacteria, mycorrhizal fungi, earthworms, etc.). Many rosarians also believe they reduce the vigor of the rose.
● Continue fertilizing.
● Keep deadheading roses as the flowers fade.
● Pest problems are unlikely this time of the year.
● Irrigations should be gauged according to the weather.
● October is also a great month for planting roses. Make sure to keep your newly planted rose bush well-watered while it establishes roots.
Learn more by watching: How to Plant, Care and Prune Rose Play List
Wisterias:
● No need to do any pruning now; you'll make your final pruning of the year in December.
● The foliage of wisterias may be looking a bit dry and even showing a slight tip burn. No need to worry; there is not much you can do to assist the plant right now.
● Watering needs will be significantly reduced now, and there is no need to fertilize.
Trees:
October gardening jobs include some tree pruning. A light pruning at this time can help trees survive the strong Santa Ana winds.
● October is a good time to prune most evergreen trees (except for tender sub-tropical trees like Ficus, Coral Tree, Avocado, Citrus, etc.).
● Wait a month or two on deciduous trees since the process will be much easier after the leaves have fallen. Nesting birds are unlikely at this time, the sap flow is reduced, and the pruning will help strong winds pass through the tree canopy with little damage.
Deciduous Fruit Trees:
● Reduce watering now. Continue to check the soil moisture level in the root area, but the trees will be using less water this time of the year. Keeping the plants barely watered will help force them into dormancy. This can be especially helpful with more temperate varieties that are marginally fruitful in our climate.
● If you are trying to limit the size of your trees, the correct time to prune them is immediately following fruit harvest, which may be as late as now, not in the winter.
● Most peaches, nectarines, apricots, and plums are finished producing fruit by October. However, many persimmons, apple, and pear varieties are fruiting now.
Citrus:
● Citrus may be starting to show a few yellow leaves already, especially if there have been some cool night temperatures.
● Feeding is all done on most citrus plants. The exception is with potted citrus, which should continue feeding with a ½ to 1/3 dose application through the fall. Use a fertilizer rich in such trace minerals as iron, zinc, manganese, copper, and others. These ingredients are usually well represented in organic fertilizers like Dr. Earth.
● Be careful with irrigation now. Warm, dry weather requires irrigation, while cooler temperatures require little irrigation.
● Continue periodically checking for ants. Control them from climbing up the trunk of the tree or onto the branches immediately. Although not directly harmful to the citrus, they are "farming" such pests as scale, whitefly, aphids, and mealybug, all of which are common on citrus.
● Valencia oranges will keep on the tree for months and may "re-green" in the fall. This does not affect their flavor.
Learn more by watching: How to Plant, Care and Prune Citrus Play List
Avocados:
● Don't be alarmed by a lot of leaf drop on mature plants. Avocados produce a lot of leaf litter nearly year-round. This is a normal condition.
● Irrigate as needed to keep the soil moist but not wet.
● It's really too late to plant an avocado successfully this year. Being sub-tropical plants, avocados prefer to be planted during the long warm part of the year.
● Many varieties may have fruit ready to harvest.
● Avocados are about done putting on any new growth this year.
● Do not feed at all this month.
● Be sure to keep a very thick blanket of mulch, compost, or fallen leaves under mature avocados at all times. Avocados need a cool root-run for good health.
● Most avocados have been out of season for at least a couple of months now. A mid-season variety, like "Reed' or 'Mexicola,' may have fruit ready to harvest. Remember that avocado fruit does not ripen on the tree; it must be removed and should ripen indoors at room temperature.
Learn more by watching: Edible Gardening: How to Grow Avocados in Southern California with Sarah Smith
Subtropical Fruits:
● Except for the 'Beaumont' variety, start checking now for fallen macadamia nuts. Pick them off the ground weekly, which may last for up to three months. The 'Beaumont' variety will be picked directly off the tree in March.
● Many of these will still be looking good. However, the temperatures will be dropping soon, so it is time to reduce or eliminate fertilizing.
● Don't plant subtropical fruit trees in October unless you absolutely have to.
● Let these plants harden off a bit before the cool temperatures of late fall and winter. Reducing or eliminating nitrogen fertilizer and cutting back on watering will help the plants get ready for the cooler months ahead.
Perennials:
October is a big month for perennial gardening. It is not too late to plant perennials in October. There are plenty of perennial plants that can still be planted. Here’s a list of some of the best perennial flowers and bulbs to plant in the fall, as well as care tips.
● This may be the most critical month in a perennial garden; here is your fall perennial planting guide for October.
● This is right in the middle of the big fall planting months for perennials. Planting now allows these plants to establish themselves all fall and winter for great spring blooms. As you shop for these plants, they will not be coming into bloom but going out of bloom. Experienced gardeners know not to worry about this, and they plant most of their perennials and shrubs over the next couple of months.
● This is the best month to plant most perennials. The only exceptions are a couple of frost tender sub-tropicals like pentas and scaevola.
● Your perennials will not need much, if any, fertilizing during the upcoming cool months. Exceptions might be a few container plants and the cool-season perennials mentioned below.
● October is a great month to review your perennials for potential replacements or upgrades. Many perennials are short-term plants and lose either their vigor or form quickly and should be re-planted now. These include (with an approximate useful lifespan) columbine (2-3 years), delphinium (1-2 years), euryops daisy (2-3 years), Felicia daisy (2-3 years), foxglove (1-2 years), lavender (3-5 years), marguerite daisy (2-3 years), nemesia (1 year), oriental poppy (1-3 years), pelargonium (2-3 years), penstemon (3 years), phygelius (3-5 years), scabiosa (2-3 years), and verbena (varies).
● Divide alstroemeria, armeria, calla (common white), clumping campanula, coneflower (echinacea), coral bells (heuchera), clumping coreopsis, dahlia (tuberous perennial types), daylily (hemerocallis), geranium (true geranium), goldenrod (solidago), Japanese anemone, kniphofia (red hot poker), lamb's ears (stachys), liatris, true lilies, matilija poppy (romneya), obedient plant (physostegia), oregano (ornamental types), phygelius, shasta daisy, and stokesia (stokes aster).
● Several perennials slow down considerably or go semi-dormant in the cool months ahead. You can cut back these varieties pretty hard right now to help the garden look a bit tidier until spring. Those that you can cut back now include achillea (yarrow), aster (perennial types, if they have finished blooming), baby's breath (gypsophila), most campanula, columbine (aquilegia), coral bells (heuchera), coreopsis, daylily (hemerocallis), dianthus (perennial types including carnation), gaillardia, most geranium (true geranium), goldenrod (solidago), Japanese anemone (when they finish blooming), lamb's ears (stachys), lions tail (leonotis), matilija poppy (romneya), monkshood (aconitum), oregano (ornamental types), oriental poppy, penstemon, phlomis, phygelius, rudbeckia, Russian sage (perovskia), most salvia (sage), scabiosa (pincushion flower), shasta daisy, stokesia (stokes aster), valerian ( centranthus), verbena (perennial types), and veronica (perennial types).
● Some other perennials do not like a hard cut-back, at least not now, and should only be trimmed lightly to shape them and remove any old or dead growth. These include agastache, gaura, lamium, lavender (lavandula), nemesia (perennial types), oriental poppy, pelargonium (ivy's, zonal's and Martha's), penstemon, and thyme.
● Some perennials disappear entirely from sight in the cool winter months and then reappear in the spring. Don't cut these back until the foliage is nearly completely dehydrated; then, you can cut the tops off near the soil level. Be sure to mark where these are in the garden so as not to accidentally damage them when cultivating or digging in the area. Some of these completely herbaceous perennials include asclepias – some varieties (butterfly weed), bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), caladium, calla (colored types), coneflower (echinacea), dahlia (tuberous perennial types), chocolate cosmos, kniphofia (red hot poker), liatris, true lilies (lilium), monkshood (aconitum), obedient plant (physostegia), and thalictrum (meadow rue).
● A few perennials are cool-season plants in our climate and are just now beginning to enter their best, most colorful time of the year. Do not prune these now. Instead, feed them a bit, and they'll be even better. These include alstroemeria (except in very cold inland gardens), armeria, euryops daisy, forget-me-not (myosotis), hellebore, marguerite daisy, and viola (perennial types).
● A few other perennials are subtropical and frost tender. These should not be trimmed now, or winter damage may occur. Wait until early spring to prune these: begonias, heliotrope, impatiens, lamium, pentas (starflower), and plectranthus.
● Some perennials don't need any annual cutting back at all. Just groom these a bit by removing any dead leaves, dead stems, old foliage, etc., and let them keep going. These include armeria, calla (common white), oriental poppy, and statice (limonium).
● Removing spent or old flowers regularly will help them to produce more new flowers. These can be dried and used in the home for fall arrangements.
● Some perennials are actually biennials or at least behave like biennials in our climate. For loads of spring flowers, set out transplants now. These include canterbury bells (Campanula medium), hollyhock (Alcea), Queen Anne's lace (Ammi majus), most foxglove (Digitalis), and most delphiniums. Don't wait until next spring, which most beginners will do; these must be fall planted to ensure spring blooms.
Learn more by watching: Gardening 101 Series | How to Use Annuals vs. Perennials with Lynn Hillman
Clematis:
● Many clematises put on a heavy second bloom spike during the late summer or early fall. Yours may be beginning this bloom cycle now.
● Apply a half-strength feeding to the plant now.
● To keep the roots cool, maintain a thick 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch over them.
● During warm, windy, or dry spells, be sure to irrigate regularly.
Poinsettias:
● Do not pinch or prune your poinsettias in October, especially if you want them to rebloom.
● Protect your poinsettia plants from high winds to avoid breaking the stems.
● To get your poinsettia to rebloom for Christmas, now is the time to start. (hint: it usually isn't worth all the effort).
● On October 1, move the plant to a completely dark, cool spot (about 65 degrees) for fourteen hours every day (ten hours in daylight). You must repeat this for ten consecutive weeks.
● The reblooming process will not work well if any light reaches the poinsettia plant (even streetlights or a full moon) or if the process is not consistent.
● During its daylight period, the plant should have direct light for about five to six hours and indirect light for the balance of time. Meanwhile, feed the plant frequently with a high phosphorus fertilizer.
California Native Plants:
● This is the earliest month to consider planting most California natives. These plants are generally summer dormant (although they usually retain their foliage), an adaptation to our dry summers. To establish these plants, they should be planted in the fall or early winter, at the onset of cool weather and rains.
● If necessary, prune, thin, and shape plants now, at the beginning of their growing season.
Learn more by watching: California Native Plants for Your Garden with James Maxwell + California Native Plants with Sarah Smith
Fuchsias:
● These are about done with their show for this year and may look a little ragged.
● Stop any fertilizing to the plants now and let them harden off a bit before the cool months begin.
● There is still a chance of some unusually hot or windy spells. During these days, be sure to check the soil moisture carefully, especially those plants in hanging baskets or containers.
● Groom the plant periodically by removing dead flowers and any developing seed pods.
Groundcovers:
● Warm-season groundcovers are slowing down now and preparing to wait out the cool months ahead. Do not fertilize these varieties now or do any heavy pruning.
● Cool-season groundcovers are beginning to grow and even bloom well. Common examples of these are African daisies (Osteospermum) and South African daisies (Gazania). Feed these varieties. A granular fertilizer works exceptionally well for groundcovers, particularly on slopes.
● This is the best time of the year to perform a heavy cutting-back of cool-season varieties if necessary. Many of these build up considerable thatch and lose their vigor if not cut back periodically. In general, the faster they grow, the more frequently they need a firm cutting back. Fertilize after the cut-back to ensure a quick recovery.
● Continue to irrigate carefully. Periods of very hot, dry weather and Santa Ana winds can dry out ground cover areas quickly.
Learn more by watching: How to Plant & Grow Groundcover with Dalia Brunner
Orchids (Outside Grown):
● Keep moving your potted Cymbidiums to more light. The foliage should be a slightly bleached-out lime-green color. If the leaves are a deep "healthy" green, there is a good chance that it is in too much shade, and a few months may bloom poorly.
Bulbs, rhizomes, tubers, etc.:
● A few fall-blooming bulbs are creating some excitement now in Orange County gardens. These include colchicum, fall-blooming crocus, nerine, sternbergia, and zephyranthes.
● This is a good month to start the chilling process for tulips, hyacinth, most varieties of crocus, some alliums, and fritillaria. If placed in the refrigerator on the first of October, they will be ready for planting in December—a perfect time. They should be in a loose paper bag and will need about ten weeks at a temperature of 39-42 degrees. You will have better results in old-fashioned frost-producing refrigerators and those without any ripening fruit present.
● Bedding cyclamen in small four-inch pots, although not usually considered along with bulbs, are flowering again. Plant them now in bright shady areas for continuous blooms through March or April of next year.
● This is still an excellent time to dig, divide, and re-plant many of the bulbs that naturalize in Orange County gardens. Those to consider dividing now include babiana, chasmanthe, spring-blooming crocus, some daffodils and narcissus, Dutch iris, gladiolus, hippeastrum, and leucojum. Some of these varieties perform best when allowed to go undisturbed for many years, while others need division and re-planting regularly. Check with a knowledgeable source before you begin.
Learn more by watching: Fall Planted Bulbs for Southern California Gardens with Sarah Smith
Bearded Iris:
● It is getting late to dig, transplant, and divide these. If you didn't do this chore over the last two months, better late than never. Bearded iris should be dug and divided every four years (every two or three years for aggressive re-blooming varieties).
● If you are growing any of the new "repeat-blooming" varieties, they will often be in bloom again now. Keep feeding these re-bloomers. Older, "once-blooming" varieties can have their feeding reduced or even eliminated for the rest of the year.
Dahlias (Tuberous Types):
● Enjoy the final month of good flowers.
● Continue to remove spent blooms regularly.
● Begin slightly reducing waterings now as the plants near the end of their season.
● This is the final feeding of the year. Fertilize at half strength.
● Powdery mildew may become more prevalent at this time of the year. It may not be worth attempting any control. If you prefer, you can try organic neem oil or 'E-Rase.'
Learn more by watching: Lew Whitney's Secrets to Growing and Maintaining Dahlias + How to Grow & Maintain Dahlias with Steve Hampson
Cannas:
● Their flowering may be slowing down a bit finally after several months of bloom.
● Cut out any old flowering stalks all the way to the soil.
Tuberous Begonias:
● Plants are about done for this year. Enjoy the last of the flowers.
● Stop fertilizing. The plants need to slow down now so that you can lift the tubers next month and store them.
● Reduce the watering significantly. Don't let them wilt, but keep them much drier than you have all summer. This will help the plant move its sugars from the leaves and stems downward and into the tubers.
● Powdery mildew is much more likely now, near the end of their season. Don't worry about it. The season is about over anyway.
Tropicals & Subtropicals:
● Many of these will still be blooming and looking good. However, the temperatures will be dropping soon, so it is time to reduce or eliminate fertilizing these plants.
● It is not unusual for many of these to have a big fall flower burst now. Look for lots of color now on plumerias, hibiscus, bougainvillea, and ginger.
● Don't plant unless you absolutely have to.
● Let these plants harden off a bit before the cool temperatures of late fall and winter arrive. Reducing or eliminating nitrogen fertilizer and cutting back on watering will help the plants get ready for the cooler months ahead.
Foliage Plants
Keep irrigating your foliage plants when the October weather is hot and dry. Many ornamental grasses are starting to put out seedheads, so this is a great time to clip those off for fall floral displays and to prevent re-seeding.
Ferns:
● Irrigate according to the weather, being especially aware of unseasonably hot, dry, or windy weather.
● Other than potted plants, which you can continue to fertilize at half strength, there is no need to fertilize again next year.
● Don't do any extensive cutting back, transplanting, or dividing. Most ferns enjoy warm weather, and these tasks are better performed at the beginning of their growth period next year.
Ornamental Grasses:
● Many grasses are now developing seed heads. These seed heads can be pretty showy and are one of the most ornamental aspects of these plants. These can be especially attractive in the low, soft, fall light, especially in the evening and early morning. The foliage of many species of grasses is beginning to dry back now. This drying foliage, especially when combined with the seed heads waving overhead, is an important part of many garden designs at this time of year. Do not cut these drying grasses back until you have thoroughly enjoyed their "fall" show.
● A few grasses may want to re-seed either in your garden or even into an adjacent wild area. If this is an issue, prune these seed heads off before the heads are fully ripe to prevent the seeds from dispersing.
● You can use the dry flowers of some of these grasses in fall arrangements. Consider these as a "fall" version of a spring flower bouquet.
● This is about the right time to cut back many cool-season grasses. Look for signs of new growth at the base of the plant. As soon as these new shoots appear, cut all the old foliage to near soil level. The common Pennisetum setaceum or P. orientale are perfect examples of this pruning.
Learn more by watching: Low Water Ornamental Grasses with James Maxwell
Vegetables & Herbs:
There are always many gardening tasks to do with vegetables and herbs, and October is no exception. There are quite a few different plants to be planted in October, and succession planting cool-season veggies will help keep you supplied with tasty produce throughout the winter.
Vegetables
● Plant potatoes from certified "seed potatoes" (actually little tubers). Planting now will provide potatoes that will be ready to harvest next summer.
● This is a perfect month for cool-season vegetable planting. Give up on most of the warm-season plants hanging on, and give this valuable space to their cool-season brethren.
● Plant transplants or seeds of arugula, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, collards, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mesclun mix, mustard, onions, parsley, peas, and spinach. From seed plant beets, carrots, favas, parsnips, radishes, rutabaga, and turnips.
● You can plant beets, carrots, chard, radish, and possibly turnips just about year-round. All but chard are planted from seed only.
● Now is one of the best times to plant garlic, onions, shallots, or leeks from sets (little bulbs).
● Putting in successive plantings of many vegetables a couple of weeks apart from each other will ensure a constant, uninterrupted supply for the kitchen.
● If you didn't last month, cut down asparagus tops now.
● The weather can still be very warm and dry, and Santa Ana winds are common now. Be sure to keep the garden well-watered during these spells.
● Since most annual vegetables are shallow-rooted and quick growing, feed them regularly with a well-balanced organic fertilizer.
Learn more by watching:
The Best Vegetables to Grow in the Cool Fall Season with Sarah Smith + Edible Gardening Series Cool Season Vegetable Gardening with Suzanne Hetrick
Herbs:
● This is the official beginning of the planting time for cool-season herbs.
● Cool-season and other herbs that can be fall-planted include anise, arugula, borage, chervil, chives, cilantro, comfrey, dill, fennel, feverfew, garlic chives, lavender, lemongrass, lovage, parsley, rosemary, salad burnet, and sorrel.
● Basil (except African Blue Basil) is in a mighty struggle now. The shorter days and cooler nights are taking their toll, and the plants aren't doing any growing but are spending all of their energy attempting to set flowers and seeds. Do your best to continue pinching out the flower buds and harvest whatever leaves you can.
Beneficial Insects:
● The numbers of beneficial insects and pests are at very low numbers now that the weather is cooling and the days are shortening.
● Giant whitefly infestations will still be seen, but there is no need for treatment with pesticides or beneficial insects this late in the season.
● Spider mites can still be found on many plants now, but in most cases, it is too late in the season for the release of beneficial predator mites.
Learn more by watching: How to Identify & Eliminate Common Garden Pests
Lawns:
● This is a good month for planting new cool-season lawns like fescue from seed. It is also a good time to overseed in thin areas of these same lawns.
● If you did not overseed your hybrid bermudagrass lawn last month and want to, you should do it now. In most of southern California, hybrid bermudagrass will go dormant until growth resumes about March of next year. Annual ryegrass is traditionally used as a winter "cover" on these lawns.
● Remember, cool-season lawn care (fescue/Marathon, bluegrass, ryegrass) should include setting your mower about half an inch lower in the cool months than in the warm months.
● If your cool-season grass has been infested with warm-season turfs like bermuda grass or kikuyu grass, this is the last chance of the year to control it. A selective herbicide, named "Grass Getter," can be sprayed over your cool-season lawn, and it will suppress warm-season grasses without damaging the cool-season grasses.
● If you didn't get it done last month, apply pre-emergent weed control to prevent Poa annua (annual bluegrass) from germinating. You will apply again around January 1. Skip this process if you are overseeding with annual bluegrass for the winter.
● Continue feeding warm-season lawns at least one more time to keep them green and growing into the fall as far as possible.
● Return to applying a full dose of fertilizer to your cool-season lawns.
● It's too late now to be planting warm-season grasses (hybrid bermudagrass, St. Augustine, etc.).
● If you have already over-seeded your warm-season lawn with Annual rye, you should be feeding from now all through the winter since it is actively growing this time of the year.
● Certain cool-season grasses also develop a thatch layer and require an occasional "dethatching" for a healthier turf, especially bluegrass and hybrid fescue/Marathon types. This is the best month to detach these cool-season turfs – but not warm-season grasses.
● Crabgrass is at the end of its season, and the clumps are easy to notice in lawns. They are setting seed now that will ensure an even more significant problem next year. For small infestations, water the lawn and hand-pull the clumps – they will remove reasonably easily in the soggy soil. For larger infestations, use a selective herbicide with the ingredient "MSMA." Follow label directions carefully.
Source: https://www.rosehills.com/discover-rose-hills
Places to Visit:
● Gardens that look terrific almost any time of the year include Sherman Library and Gardens (Corona del Mar), The Fullerton Arboretum (Fullerton), Los Angeles Arboretum (Arcadia), Huntington Library and Botanical Gardens (San Marino), and San Diego Botanical Gardens (Encinitas).
Rose Hills Memorial Park.At the Fullerton Arboretum, don't miss the annual Arborfest and Fall Plant Sale. Usually held during a weekend toward the middle of the month, it features family activities, an Ugly Bug Fair, Cactus & Succulent Show, over 50 exhibitors, apple pressing, butter making, hay wagon rides, children's garden crafts, food, and music.
Records, Catalogs, Books, and Organizations:
● If you kept notes in your garden journal during the spring, this is the time to go back and see what needed to be done this fall. Be sure to also drop in some notes from this season about what did well, what is still doing well, and of course, what did not do well.
● With all the planting going on this month, it is a good idea to make some notes in your journal about the names and varieties of what you planted. Often, much later, you cannot remember the name or variety of a plant. After the plant is taken out of the pot, save the tag and jot a note into your journal about where and when you planted it.
Many mail-order plant and seed companies send out "fall" catalogs about now. Check the mail for these. They can be a lot of fun and also educational. Be careful, however, that the plants and information apply to our very unique gardening climate here in Orange County.
Soil Care:
● A thick layer of organic mulch, averaging about two inches, should be maintained on top of the soil just about year-round. Add additional mulch as needed to maintain this level. This is one of the most critical months of the year to apply this mulch.
● Applied now, a thick layer of mulch will moderate the soil temperatures, reduce weed germination, and significantly improve soil health and soil quality.
● If you have been considering inoculating your soil with beneficial mycorrhizae to restore soil health, this is one of the best months of the year to do so. The soil temperatures are just right for quick establishment. Inoculation can be done quickly and easily in established areas by using mycorrhizae "tablets." In moist soil, poke a hole near the plant with a ½" or ¾" rod or stick. Drop a tablet into the hole and push it in again with the stick.
● We do not suggest the use of very high-analysis fertilizers in a garden, especially phosphorus. Examples of fertilizers to avoid are synthetic versions with formulations like 10-55-10, 10-30-10, etc. We don't even suggest the popular 15-30-15 formula. These formulations will inhibit or even destroy much of the soil life that is so vital to healthy, sustainable soil.
● We also suggest that you not use soil-applied systemic fertilizer/insecticide combinations (especially popular with roses). These are very damaging to soil life.
● Use insecticides only when necessary, and even then, use the least damaging product available. Many of these products move into the soil and interfere with the invisible soil life.
● If you can, begin a compost pile or purchase a compost bin. Home compost is one of the very best ingredients you can add to your soil. Home compost helps significantly in disease suppression, increases beneficial microorganisms, improves soil structure and texture, aids nutrient retention, and helps with nematode suppression. Over the next couple of months, there will be many fallen leaves from deciduous trees, and these are excellent additions to a compost bin over the winter to improve your garden soil.
● Since this is also one of the most significant planting months of the year, be sure that before you put a plant into the garden, you have considered the soil and do all you can to improve it and protect its health.
● If your soil pH is too high (alkaline), this is probably the single best month of the year to lower it. The two methods are both effective. Using a low pH mulch over the surface is probably the most effective. The other is with the incorporation of soil sulfur, an organic naturally occurring acidifying chemical.
Learn more by watching: Gardening 101 Series | What Kind of Soil Should You Use? + How to Prepare Your Soil with Suzanne Hetrick
Water & Irrigation:
● Watch out for drying Santa Ana winds. Take down hanging baskets and set them on the ground when these winds blow.
● Reset sprinklers now since the weather is cooling off.
Fertilizer:
● Make the last application of granular iron fertilizer to gardenias, camellias, azaleas, citrus, or any other plants that have a high iron requirement. Plants only absorb iron when the soil temperatures are warm, and this is the last chance until next March.
● Do not feed frost-sensitive or sub-tropical plants this time of year.
Learn more by watching: Fertilizer Tips 1- 2-3 with Suzanne Hetrick + Why Fertilize & What do the Numbers Mean with Suzanne Hetrick