Spring Celebration Demonstration Schedule

ORCHIDS 101: Soil Prep, Planting in Pots & Basic Maintenance Demo

Orchids are one of the largest and oldest families of flowering plants in the world, with over 25,000 different species. From seed, it can take 5-7 years to produce a bloom.

Roger’s Maintenance + Care Recommendations:

• Light
○ Medium to very bright light, but no direct sun
○ Orchids must always stay indoors.

• Substrates/Mediums
○ Orchid roots need to be tightly rootbound, which makes them unique from any other blooming plant. The medium that orchids require are sphagnum moss or orchid bark.

• Temperature
○ Orchids thrive in day temperatures of 65°-75° F and night temperatures of 55°-65° F.
○ Good air circulation helps prevent fungus.

• Watering
○ Water every 10-14 days.
○ If orchid is planted in sphagnum moss, submerge the whole root system (in its plastic container) in a bucket of water and let it drain for 10-15 minutes.
○ If the orchid is planted in bark, it will require more water and more frequent watering.
○ If orchid is in an arrangement, lift the moss and pour a sparing amount of water down in the roots, or completely remove it from decorative container and water it thoroughly.
• In Roger’s Original Design planted arrangements, the orchids are planted in their own container, making it easy to remove and replace.
○ Do not use ice cubes – orchids are tropical plants, so the temperature of an ice cube can shock the plant. It is also not the proper amount of water to be used.
○ Let it dry it out between waterings, and never allow the orchid to stand in water.

• Dormant Stage & Fertilizing
○ After the orchid has fully bloomed, cut above a node.
○ Water like usual.
○ Fertilize every other time you water. Only fertilize while the orchid is NOT in bloom. It will take a little while for another spike to shoot out of the node. Mature orchids will have more leaves and have a better chance of producing another bloom.

Houseplant Propagating Methods

Propagation Options:
Propagating can be done in multiple ways but when it comes to houseplants, the two easiest options are dividing and cuttings. Knowing what option is important to the success of your propagation.

• Division (Propagation Type 1)

○ Types of Propagation Plants:
• An extremely fibrous root system, a plant that typically reproduces with rhizomes to create pups
• A plant that has corms that can be separated.

○ Plants with Fibrous Root System:
• Typically, with division you will want to loosen up as much soil as you can from the root system to have as much visibility as possible.
• From there, depending on the plant, you can slowly start to pull apart the pups from the main plant (which is more commonly found with plants with rhizomes) or even cut the two apart carefully with a spade or even a gardening knife.
• Just make sure to never get rid of more than ⅓ of your plants root system because you can risk causing the plant root shock.
• The good thing about this option is that the root system is usually developed.

○ Plants with Fibrous Root System:
• Typically, with division you will want to loosen up as much soil as you can from the root system to have as much visibility as possible.
• From there, depending on the plant, you can slowly start to pull apart the pups from the main plant (which is more commonly found with plants with rhizomes) or even cut the two apart carefully with a spade or even a gardening knife.
• Just make sure to never get rid of more than ⅓ of your plants root system because you can risk causing the plant root shock.
• The good thing about this option is that the root system is usually developed.

○ Plants with Corms
• These are even easier to separate. Once the soil is loosened, you can use your hands or if it is a little tougher to remove, some scissors, and separate the corms from the root system.
• All you really need to do from this point is to find the growing medium it works best in which will depend on the plant you divided.

○ Plant Recommendations for Division
• ZZ plants, known as Zamioculcas zamiifolia
• Snake plants, known as Sansevierias (the scientific name has been updated to Dracaena trifasciata)
• Alocasias (plants with corms)


• Cuttings (Propagation Type 2)

○ This option of propagation is typically used for plants that have nodes or are plants that can grow a root system from their stems.
○ Propagating Process for Cuttings
○ To begin the process of getting a cutting, you will want to locate the node of the plant.
• In most plants you can tell that they are present because the stem will show pale margins going across it every few inches (it is not the same as plant variegation which looks like sporadic white/yellow discoloration).
• The reason it is so important to find nodes for propagation is because these are the locations in the plant with the most cellular activity for new growth and when the plant is cut below or above that node, the plant cutting will release adventitious roots to survive. Those roots will be the main root system as it matures.
○ Once this node is found, you will use shears (that have been disinfected with rubbing alcohol to avoid cross-contamination) to cut below or above the node.
○ The next step is choosing the substrate medium you would like to use.

• Substrate Mediums
○ Directly in Soil:
• With this option you will need rooting hormone. Pour some of the rooting hormone powder onto a small dish and with the fresh cutting, you will dunk the end of it and completely cover the open cut.
• Then create a tiny hole into some potting soil with the pot of your choice and then cover any gaps with soil so the cutting does not fall.
○ After a few weeks, the root structure will form. This option does make it hard to see if it has been established so it is not always preferred.

• Directly in Water (and LECA):
○ Put in the cutting into a jar, cup, or tube and fill with water past the node.
• You will want to replace the water weekly to avoid bacteria buildup.
• The issue with this option is that there can be a risk of transplant shock since their root system isn’t able to attach to something. A good way to avoid this is adding clay balls also known as LECA. Before adding it to your water make sure to thoroughly wash through the LECA because it often can have a lot of dust particles. Once washed, feel free to first place that into your choice of cup or pot (anything that doesn’t have drainage) and place the plant into it making sure that when you add the water it still covers the node.


• Moss Propagation Box:
○ This is a popular option because you can grow multiple cuttings at once.
• Find a plastic box (or even a plastic cup if it is just one cutting) that can tolerate staying wet.
○ Soak the sphagnum moss for 5-10 minutes until it is drenched and then wring out the moss until it is still wet, but not soaking and place in box. If it is kept soaking wet, you can run into fungal or bacterial issues that can cause rot damage to your cuttings.
○ Add some perlite (the amounts can vary depending on the box or cup size but generally you want mostly sphagnum moss) and mix it into the moss.
○ Then add your cuttings and lay them on their sides, making sure the leaves are facing upwards.
○ Make sure it stays moist by misting. If you want to make the root growing process quicker, cover the box with a lid and add holes to make sure you get enough aeration.
○ After a few weeks, you will see that roots have grown, and can be transplanted into soil once root system has grown 3-4 inches long.


○ Plant Recommendations for Cuttings
• Philodendrons
• Pothos
• Monsteras
• Rhaphidophoras
• Peperomias
• Pileas

Creating a Moss Pole for Staking Plants

Benefits of Staking
There are many varieties of houseplants that are epiphytes, which means the plants typically use other larger plants, such as trees, as support to reach the tops of tree canopies in search of sunlight when in their natural habitat.

To mimic the bark on the trees, we recommend using a moss pole, because it can retain moisture and has a texture that is easy for the plant to attach to. These epiphytes will grow aerial roots that will grab onto the pole and help it climb upward. The results are typically larger and, depending on the variety, more fenestrated leaves. Growing a staked plant also benefits small spaces, since the plant will grow upward and will not sprawl out, saving space.

Materials
○ Stake with desired width and height (piece of wood, pvc pipe, bamboo stick, etc.)
○ Sphagnum Moss (you can also use sheet moss)
○ Choice of String (twine, fishing line, etc.)
○ Scissors or Pruners
○ Bowl or Container for soaking moss
○ Gloves (optional)

Steps
○ First, thoroughly soak the moss for 15 minutes.
• Once done, remove from the bowl or container and wring out the moss so that it is moist but not soaking wet.
○ You will then make a knot with the chosen string at the top of the pole and use it almost like an anchor.
○ Grab clumps of moss and stick onto your pole.
• Use one hand to hold moss onto the pole and then the other hand to wrap the string around the pole.
○ Once the string is secured, add enough moss to form a layer up to a ½ - 1 inch in thickness.
○ Then slowly wrap the string downwards and keep wrapping until the moss is secured.
• Leave the bottom ¼ of your stake bare so you can stick it into the soil.
• Any extra string will be tied into a knot at the bottom to use as another anchor.

Positioning Stake
○ Look for the base of the plant and carefully place the unwrapped portion of the pole close to the main stem you are trying to stake.
• It is recommended to pack in soil near the bottom of the pole to keep it from moving.
○ The way you stake this plant will depend on the plant you choose.
• Some have flexible stems that can be wrapped around while other varieties are very rigid and must be trained early on by tying to the stake to maintain a nice shape.
○ Even plants with aerial roots (which is the plant’s way of latching on) will need to be tied up to the stake for a few months until the plant wraps around the plant on its own.
• Feel free to use any string or garden tape to keep the stem tied to the moss pole.

Plant Recommendations
○ Monsteras:
• This plant group is well known for getting quite large when staked. They are commonly known as the Swiss cheese plant because of all the holes they can develop which are known as fenestrations. By staking, you can encourage more fenestration.
○ Philodendrons/Pothos:
• These plant groups are known for their trailing/cascading nature but can be trained to climb up trellises and stakes. As they continue to climb their leaves can get much larger.

How to Build a Terrarium

Benefits of Terrariums + Origin:
Terrarium has many benefits. It helps grow plants that have difficulty growing in dry air. Terrariums create a warm, humid environment which is preferred by many mosses and tropical and carnivorous plants. These containers are low-maintenance and do not need to be watered very frequently.

History:
Terrariums were born in the Victorian age when plant exploration was at its height. The original terrarium was invented by English botanist, Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward in 1842. He made the discovery of the terrarium by accident when he was raising moth pupae in a sealed glass jar. Ward noticed that moss and ferns were thriving in the environment he had created for the moths, thus, the first terrarium was born! Terrariums became extremely popular in the Flower Power era of the 1970’s. They are also seen as unique art pieces that are a collage of natural elements.

Terrarium Plant Recommendations:
Arguably the most fun step in creating a terrarium is choosing the stars of the show. Pick a variety of different plants that have different patterns, textures, and heights to make for a full, unique environment.

○ Ferns
○ African Violets
○ Mosses
○ Creeping Fig
○ Calatheas
○ Baby Tears
○ Polka Dot Plant
○ Pileas

Important:
Make sure that all the plants selected for your terrarium have the same watering needs!

Materials
○ Pebbles
○ Activated Charcoal
○ Sheet Moss
○ Soil
○ Terrarium Tools
○ Terrarium Plants
○ Glass Terrarium

Instructions:
• Choose Your Container
○ This is half the fun in creating your terrarium; choosing the home for your plants to live in! You can use
• Lay the Ground
○ Though terrarium plants typically like to stay moist, they still need some drainage to thrive well, so, layers need to be added to the terrarium.
• Add Layers:
○ To start off, you will add a layer of activated charcoal.
• This will help the longevity of your terrarium, as activated charcoal absorbs any odors due to rotting plant material, as well as helping with drainage.
○ Place a sheet of moss on top of the charcoal to keep the potting soil (next layer) from mixing in.
○ Add a layer of damp potting soil on top of the charcoal.
• Make sure the layer of soil is at least a couple inches deep, allowing room for plants to grow.
○ Add or plant your plants.
• Make sure they are not too condensed and have a little room to grow.
○ Once everything is to your liking, add the pebbles on top of your soil.
• This layer is mostly used for aesthetic purposes.

Care + Maintenance Recommendations:

How to Water a Terrarium
○ Get a spray bottle or small watering can and wet the soils so the layers are damp, but not soaking wet.
○ Remove soil particles stuck to the glass with a spray bottle or damp paper towel.
○ Every 2-3 weeks, check the moisture in your terrarium by touching the soil, to see if it is damp.

*Important:
Never fertilize the plants in a terrarium. Terrariums provide their own nutrients through the natural decay of the potting mix.

Enjoy your new mini-terrarium garden!